Screen Flickering On Surface Pro 4 FIXED, Permanently

Screen Flickering on Surface Pro 4 Update – 6 months on

I just thought I’d revisit this article and give everyone an update. I’ve been using this device now for nearly 6 months. I’ve edited videos and played with very large graphics files using Filmora 9 and Affinity Designer. At times the device has got very hot. I run Core Temp to keep an eye on the temperatures and some of my video rendering has kept the CPU temperatures at a constant 72 degrees for well over half an hour. The back side of the Surface Pro 4 has been almost untouchably hot during these intense usage scenarios.

The original parts failed within a few days under this sort of load. The new screen outlined in this article is still going strong 6 months later. No signs of flickering or distortion. Indeed, it’s performed as you would expect a device to.

I have had some strange issues with the touch input registering ghost touches. This is where the screen thinks it’s being touched but in fact isn’t. At first I thought ‘Oh no, a new fault’. But I tracked it down to interference from a mains PowerLan adaptor. This is a device which enables you to extend your network using the mains system, rather than relying on WiFi to reach harder places in the home. When I unplugged the SP4 from the Powerlan adaptor the problem went away and hasn’t come back. So beware, the touch input digitizer can be affected by electromagnetic interference!

Update: Jan 29 2020 – Still going strong, I conclude the screen flickering on Surface Pro 4 is indeed solved ๐Ÿ™‚

My Screen Is Distorted and Flickering On Surface Pro 4

If you’re researching the screen flickering on your Surface Pro 4 you’ve probably come across articles talking about ‘Flickergate’ online. Flickergate is the term given to a problem with the Microsoft Surface Pro 4 whereby the screen flashes quickly, flickering or distorted. Dark black lines may also appear across the top of the display. These, in my experience, usually are the precursor to the dreaded screen flickering problem.

The screen may also exhibit ‘ghosting’. This is where an image of previous contents of the screen remains even after it should have disappeared. Eg, if you have a web page open and then close your browser but an image of the browser remains. The ghosting obstructs the windows that should now be visible.

The image at the very top of this article shows this ghosting effect. The browser window which you can see actually should not be there – I closed it.

What Causes Screen Flickering On Surface Pro 4

In most cases the fault shows itself after moderate use of the laptop. This causes the device to heat up internally and transfers that heat to the screen. This is a bit of a design flaw inherent in any device that has all the processing horsepower behind the screen. Traditional laptops don’t have this problem because very little heat is generated behind the screen.

Even fairly light use can cause the problem if the heat isn’t dissipated away from the screen.

Ultimately, the cause in this case is a faulty screen component. Microsoft acknowledged the problem and replaced many Surface Pro 4’s that exhibited the problem after much public pressure from and other places. But they only replace the defective device if the device is less than 3 years old. Most of these devices are now over 3 years old and Microsoft has essentially washed its hands of these.

Be aware though that faulty drivers and software incompatibilities may cause a similar looking problem. Though this is rare, it is important to make sure your drivers are all up to date. Flickergate will generally only happen once the device warms up.

Can This Flickering Be Prevented

If your Surface Pro 4 isn’t exhibiting the problem yet then you can help prolong its life by keeping it cool. The cooling fan in the Surface Pro 4 is very small and very under powered. If you’re using your Surface Pro 4 for moderate or heavy work it will warm up. I ended up purchasing an external USB powered desktop fan from Amazon. I positioned it to blow air onto the back of the Surface Pro to keep it cool.

It helped, but didn’t stop the problem from happening ultimately.

Online, people have posted videos of having bags of ice resting against the screen to cool it. This isn’t a viable solution at all. The problem is due to defective electrical contacts at the top of the screen which are glued to the LCD device. When the device warms up the glue also warms and becomes pliable. The backing warps and a good electrical contact is lost.

The part of the screen that needs the most cooling is actually at the top just under the bezel. This means you’d need to apply your ice pack to the top of the screen. Which, of course, will get in the way of your work. That’s ignoring the elephant in the room that ice melts into water and water and electronics don’t mix.

If your Surface Pro 4 is fitted with a defective screen it will eventually exhibit the problem. If you want to see if your Surface Pro 4 has a Samsung or an LG screen there’s a software product called AIDA64 which will examine your system and can tell you which version you have. If you have the Samsung display with no symptoms you’re lucky ๐Ÿ™‚

Will Microsoft Replace My Device?

If you bought it from Microsoft in the last 3 years and it is exhibiting the flickering problem then yes, they will.

If it’s under 3 years old but not exhibiting the problem then they won’t. Even though it’s quite possible, indeed probable that it will go defective in the future.

If you bought the device second hand you’re quite likely out of luck either way. It’s probably older than 3 years and I’m not sure that Microsoft would be obliged to replace it as it’s second hand.

What Can I Do To Permanently Fix It?

Can I Replace The Screen On My Surface Pro 4?

The answer to this is yes you can. But it’s not easy at all. You’re going to need to be fairly technically competent. You also need to be aware that you’ll almost certainly shatter the old screen. In this case that’s not a big deal because it’s dysfunctional anyway.

There’s plenty of YouTube videos showing how to get the screen off your Surface Pro 4 and I’ve not produced one of my own as the ones out there are good.

The video above from YouTube gives a good overview. There’s a few things I’d change though having done a bunch of these now.

Tips For Getting The Screen Off Without Damage

It’s extremely difficult to get the screen off without damaging it. It can be done – I’ve done it. But it’s very very difficult. If your screen is flickering on your Surface Pro 4 then damaging the screen probably isn’t too much of a drama. It’s already dysfunctional. But you do need to be aware of things you can damage other than the screen.

Make sure the device is switched off before beginning. You can’t disconnect the battery unfortunately as it’s inside.

Reduce Heat

  • The heat gun should be no hotter than 100 Celsius. This is around 210 Fahrenheit. Less is better though. Cooler temperature reduces your risk of being burned. The top side of the Surface Pro 4 is made of a plastic material that will melt if over heated.
  • Place some heat resistant ‘Kapton’ tape over the top side plastic to help reduce the heat transferred to it. If you overheat this it will melt and distort. It will look horrible and the buttons may be a lot harder to operate.
  • Cover the inside edges of the screen with Kapton tape. I usually put them just on the edge of the bevels and apply enough tape to cover around an inch of the LCD portion of the screen. Apply the tape all around the screen. The reasons for this are threefold. The Kapton tape will help reduce heat transference onto the LCD itself. This will reduce heat damage to the LCD itself in the event that you do want to re-use it. The tape also helps to reduce the likelihood of the screen shattering when you pry it apart. Finally it also helps to capture any glass shards if you do shatter the screen.
Surface Pro 4 broken screen with Kapton Tape
Image showing how I apply Kapton Tape to reduce shatter risk


  • WEAR EYE PROTECTION. A cavalier attitude here could cost you your eyesight. Wear eye protection. The screen may shatter unexpectedly and small pieces of glass may fly into the air. They are extremely sharp and if they enter your eye you will be injured.
  • Protective gloves may reduce the cuts you’ll get if the screen breaks. But they do make it harder to work. This choice is yours.

Be Aware Of Internal Components

  • Use plastic separators rather than metal if possible. I use a very thin craft knife initially to get underneath the screen and then switch to plastic or wooden separators once I have enough room to work. The lower left edge has flat plastic ribbon cables to connect the touch screen logic board to the screen. Using a knife here will cut straight through them. This isn’t a problem if the screen is already a write off, but if you want to get it off whole then you’ll ruin it if you cut these.
  • Underneath the top of the display are the Bluetooth and WiFi antennae. These are very easily damaged and extremely difficult to get hold of replacements. They’re also stuck firmly to the screen. Do not use metal separators here. Try to separate the bottom, left and right sides first then you can lift the screen gently and use plastic or wooden separators to prise the sticky tape off the antennae without damage. Be gentle, they’re delicate.

Where Can I Get A New Screen?

Surface Pro 4 screens are available on eBay or Amazon. However most of them will caution you to only replace the screen with the same model that you took off.

In my experience this is bad advice. The model that you took off is fatally flawed. It is the entire model range that is flawed here – not just your screen. I’ve replaced flickering screens on the Surface Pro 4 with the same model only for the screen to begin flickering again a few weeks or months later.

I’ve researched online extensively to find a proper solution to this flickering screen on Surface Pro 4 problem and the amount of information is minimal. However, I have now discovered that the root of the problem is the screen model itself. The models affected are the Samsung LCD screen with model numbers beginning LTN123YL01. I’m not sure if all revisions of this device are affected. I have a Surface Pro 4 fitted with the LTN123YL01-007 which has not developed the fault (yet) but other revisions are definitely affected.

Which Screen Model Should I Get?

Given that the Samsung LTN123YL01 is flawed and this is the model for the Surface Pro 4 does that mean there is no alternative but to risk it flickering again?

No – luckily, Microsoft ultimately found a better supplier for their LCD screens and it is believed that the models they refurbished came with this new screen. Also, and more importantly, the Surface Pro 5 is fitted with a screen that is a suitable replacement for the Surface Pro 4.

There’s a catch though. Although the Surface Pro 5 screen will fit and work on a Surface Pro 4, the cable that attaches to the motherboard is different. So, if you’re upgrading your Surface Pro 4 screen to a Surface Pro 5 screen you will need to get a new ribbon cable to go with it.

The N-Trig device that processes the touchscreen input is interchangeable though. Keep the old one from your Surface Pro 4 screen and re-apply it to the new Surface Pro 5 screen.

The particular model screen I use is this one at eBay – Surface Pro 5 Screen – note that it is more expensive than the traditional Surface Pro 4 screens but I’ve not had one fail on me yet. The original Surface Pro 4 screens fail at an alarming rate. I don’t recommend replacing your screen with one. Use the Surface Pro 5 screen instead.

If you have an LTN123LY model you’ve taken off and need the right cable to replace it with the SP5 screen, you can find that on eBay too here. If you prefer Amazon, there is now a US seller with Prime delivery for both the screen and the cable. Click here to get the SP5 screen on Amazon instead. Click here to get the SP4 LG Cable on Amazon instead.

Incidentally, if you need a new N-Trig board for touch screen operation, they’re available too. Click to view the N-Trig Surface Pro 4 and Surface Pro 5 touch screen logic board.

Links To Parts and Equipment

These are links to the exact parts I’ve used to repair Surface Pro Screens successfully. The Surface Pro 5 screen fixes the ‘flickergate’ problem once and for all and is a much better option than hoping the screen doesn’t go faulty with the Surface Pro 4 replacement screen. In fact, if you do replace your existing screen you’ll end up with the screen flickering on Surface Pro 4 happening again, probably within weeks.

AIDA64 can tell you if you have a Samsung screen without opening the device
LG Replacement Screen For Surface Pro 4 / 5 (link to eBay Seller I purchased from)

If you prefer to shop on Amazon, these screens are now available on from a seller called LCDOLED. Prime shipping appears to be available too. Click here to shop for these screens on Amazon instead of eBay.

If you prefer shopping on Amazon these cables are now available on the US Amazon shop from a seller called LCDOLED. They’re the ones you need ๐Ÿ™‚ Click here to buy from

While You’ve Got The Screen Off…

Upgrade the Hard Drive In Surface Pro 4

If you have a 128Gigabyte storage Surface Pro 4, now is a good time to also upgrade the hard drive in it. The only way to upgrade the hard drive is to get the screen off. The hard drive in the Surface Pro 4 is an NVME M-Key SSD hard drive. I have upgraded mine to a 480Gigabyte drive. I’ll write a separate article shortly outlining exactly how to do this. If you’ve got the screen off, replacing the hard drive is easy. I used the Corsair CSSD-F480GBMP510 Force Series MP510 480 GB NVMe PCIe Gen3 x 4 M.2 Solid State Drive which is an excellent price point for the size and speed. The disk is also a fair bit snappier than the original that came with the Surface Pro 4, so there’s a win there too. They also do 1 Terrabyte and now 2 Terrabyte versions too. Mind boggling.

Re-Apply Thermal Paste to Processor and GPU in Surface Pro 4

Arctic Silver Thermal Paste

Also, while you’re in the device, you could consider re-applying the thermal paste on the processor and GPU inside the Surface Pro 4. Manufacturers traditionally provide horrible thermal paste on these devices. The thermal paste provides a proper heat transference from the CPU to the heatsink. This means that heat can escape the processor better and reduces thermal throttling.

I use Arctic Silver thermal paste as imaged to the left. I’ve re-applied this to Macs, Desktop PCs and Surface Pros. In fact, I also added some to my son’s PlayStation 4. It stopped the fans sounding like jet engines. It works ๐Ÿ™‚

Is The Surface Pro 4 Still A Good Machine?

Once you fix the Flickergate potential on a Surface Pro 4 it’s a fantastic machine in my opinion. It’s quick (especially if you upgrade the SSD while you’ve got the screen off – the newer drives seems to be quicker). It’s portable, it’s light, it’s thin. The battery, even after all this time, still holds a good couple of hours of normal use. The screen is crisp with bright colours. The tablet mode – if you like that sort of thing – is great. It’s also the last model of Surface Pro that you actually can upgrade the hard drive.

I love the Surface Pro 4. But that flickering screen is a problem. Or was. Now that’s resolved permanently this device is the best portable I’ve ever owned. It blows the GEO Flex 2 in 1 out of the water for performance. But buying second hand is risky unless you’re prepared to replace the screen.

Final Words

I find the LG screen clearer and sharper than the original with brighter colours. I’m not sure if I’m imagining it but would be interested to know what you think if you do the upgrade. Above I’ve included links to all the equipment I use to replace the screen on Surface Pro devices. If you purchase through these links I will be paid a small affiliate commission but it does not affect the price you pay and it will help me produce further articles and is much appreciated. If you don’t want to use those links you can go direct to Amazon or eBay to search for the devices.

Also, if you’re reading this in the USA (or indeed anywhere outside of the UK) I’ve not been able to find these part numbers on US stores. But they might be there – have a look ๐Ÿ™‚ Both the screen and the cable are now available on the US Amazon store. Links below;

Just a small bit of trivia that you won’t know… This article was written using a Surface Pro 4 which previously had the screen flickering problem. It’s now fixed. I’ve played Minecraft on it. I’ve used Filmora Pro 9 (which heats up significantly!) and Affinity Photo and Affinity Designer. The previous Surface Pro 4 screens I used began flickering within days of using these. I conclude that the problem is now fixed and won’t be coming back!

Update: 29th Jan 2020 – it’s now been 6 months since this article was written and nearly 9 months since I actually changed the Samsung screen for a LG screen. I’m writing this update on the very same machine that the screen was changed on. It’s shown no flicker symptoms whatsoever. I can conclude that this fixes screen flickering on Surface Pro 4 machines permanently.

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39 thoughts on “Screen Flickering On Surface Pro 4 FIXED, Permanently”

    1. Hi there,
      The replaced SP4 will have the same dodgy screen. Unfortunately there’s no way to tell from the outside what screen part number has been used. If it’s still under warranty, get it replaced again, preferably with a Surface Pro 5 if you can convince Microsoft to swap it. If it’s no longer covered by warranty, the screen can be replaced with a SP5 screen as shown on this post.

      Hope that helps!

  1. Firstly I just wanna thank you Steve. I have been looking for this for so long. Guides on the true fix for the flicker problem besides Microsoft replacement is severely lacking.

    I have a question though. I can’t get the flex cable using the link. Would it work if I buy the surface pro 5 LG flex cables? Would they fit on the surface pro 4 motherboard?

    1. Hi Taimoor,
      No, the SP5 cable is different so it won’t fit the SP4. I had a link in the article to the right cable but it’s on the UK eBay site. Having said that, I suspect they’ll send something like that internationally? Someone will send it via the GSP ๐Ÿ™‚

      Hope that helps,

      1. Christian Smith

        Hi Steve,

        Do you only need 1 of the cables specified or do you need to replace both cables to connect the SP5 screen to a SP4?


        1. Hi there,
          Just the LG screen to motherboard cable. The N-Trig touch cable is the same, since the N-Trig board is the same for either the SP4 or the SP5

          Hope that helps,

          P.S, mines still flicker free, months later and I spent all day yesterday playing Minecraft on it ๐Ÿ™‚

  2. Hello!,
    firstly, I want to thank you for your post. It is very well explained.
    I have a surface pro 4 and I want to change the battery since it is dead and the touchscreen has a non-responsive zone and flickers. I want to buy a new surface pro 5 screen and follow your advice. But I have found this ( ). Am I misunderstanding something?
    Will I fix the dead zone of the touchscreen with a new LCD? or do I need a new N-trig board? Thank you very much for your advice!

    1. Hi Carlos,
      A couple of things. That thread you link to appears to be trying to put a SP4 screen onto a SP5. This isn’t a good idea anyway because the SP4 screens are crap ๐Ÿ™‚ And the comments on that part of it are correct – you couldn’t do it anyway because the LCD cables are wrong. But you CAN put a SP5 screen on to the SP4 – but you must get the LCD cable as indicated in the post.

      Now, the N-Trig. The article you’ve linked to is incorrect on that front. The N-Trig for the SP4 and the SP5 are exactly the same.

      My guess is that your N-Trig board is probably fine. What I suspect has happened is that the connector to the glass screen has broken and caused the dead zone. My advice would be to use your old N-Trig board, test it all out before sticking the screen in place. If it doesn’t fix the non-responsive zone then a new N-Trig would be needed. But I suspect it’ll be fine with a new screen. Test before sticking down ๐Ÿ™‚

      Links to the cables, N-Trigs and actual SP5 screens I used are all in the article for you ๐Ÿ™‚

      Good luck, let me know how you get on!

  3. Hi Steve Brown!
    Thank you very much to share the information.
    In my case I break my original screen to change the puffy battery ๐Ÿ™‚
    I already bought too different screens for my surface 4 and both have problems.
    Now I will do exacly what you are recomending.


  4. Hi there,

    I know this may seem far-fetched, since you mentioned that the pro 4 screen is interchangeable with pro 5, is it possible surface pro 3 screen to be swapped to a surface pro 5 one?

    1. Hi there,
      My understanding is that the SP4 screen is not interchangeable with the SP3 at all as the cables are different and the screens are different resolutions. The bezels are different sizes too, as well as there being no Microsoft Windows logo Home key on the SP4 and SP5. It might work, but I wouldn’t risk it as I don’t think it will.

      1. Hi Steve,

        That’s really disappointing. It looks like I have to upgrade to a newer surface pro once my SP3 dies down then. I was hoping that it would be [technically] possible to attempt such feats.

        1. There’s no real need to change the SP3 screen to an SP5 one anyway. The SP3 doesn’t have the flickering problem, and replacement SP3 screens are still readily available on eBay if you do break it ๐Ÿ™‚

          1. I was hoping to get the improved n-trig stuff from changing the screen (if it’s doable in the first place). SP3 n-trig feels pale in comparison to the latest ones, and shelling out few thousands for it doesn’t justify since I still have a working SP3 in a way (just a screen with phantom touch and broken digitizer (on selected grids)

          2. Ah, yes, I think the N-Trig is upgraded on the 4 and 5 (they’re the same N-Trig on 4 and 5, but different to the 3).

            If you’re getting phantom touches happening I’d check to make sure there’s no electrical interference happening anywhere. I had phantom touches happening regularly on my SP4 (with the new screen) and thought the N-Trig was faulty. But when I stopped using the powerline Ethernet adapter the problem went away and has never returned.

            So electrical interference certainly can cause phantom touches on the Surface Pro.

            Hope that helps,

  5. Hey, just wanted to say thank you first. Most of the information you can find on this topic is just bs i could tell right away. But i’m not sure about that contact thing. I think i know which connector you are speaking of, the one who is soldered right onto the screen right?
    I think it could be some semiconductor stuff broken like a little controll ic or what ever. But i’m just guessing. Did you ever tried to fix an SP4 screen? I’dont want to spend 200 โ‚ฌ on a screen + investing a couple of hours in repair. I’ve onced repaired an Iphone screen which faced a similar problem with a piece of plastic stuffed between the screen connector and the LCD panel so that the screen would apply a greater force on the connector when the device is closed again. It worked pretty good for the next two years…

    1. Hi there,
      I have tried to fix the flickering SP4 screen by applying force to the connector at three top of the screen. On many TVs this is a solution, but in my experience it doesn’t work on the SP4. Whether this is because I can’t apply enough pressure in the right area or something else is wrong I don’t know.

      In the end, replacing with a surface pro 5 screen seems to be the only long term solution

  6. Microsoft is offering to upgrade my flickering SP4 to a new SP5 at a cost. Is SP5 also suffering flickering issue? Please advise so I can I decide on this offer.

    1. Hi Vish,
      The surface pro 5 does not have the same flickering problems. This is why I recommend using a surface pro 5 screen on the surface pro 4 too. So if the price Microsoft are offering your a SP5 at is good then it’s probably not a bad idea.

      Hope that helps,

  7. Hi Steve

    Great article, thanks! I don’t have the stomach to replace the screen myself (it belongs to my employer!). There are lots of UK online services offering screen replacements, but it’s difficult to know which are most reputable/reliable, particularly if a like-for-like replacement will cause the problem to re-occur. Have you heard of any good ones?

    1. Hi Peter,
      I’m afraid I don’t. I do some myself, but only on refurbishing items, I wouldn’t want to do it on someone else’s, although to be fair I’ve not had any problems thus far… Anyway, I’ll throw this one open to UK readers to suggest ๐Ÿ™‚

    2. Peter – I have the same question (in London, UK) – Did you find anywhere?

      Mine just starting flickering and it’s starting earlier each day. Very annoyingly I’m just 7 weeks over the 3 year period!!!

      @Steve – this is awesome, thx

      1. Hi Paul,
        Thanks for the feedback. They always seem to go when they’re only just over the warranty!

        Mines still going strong though ๐Ÿ™‚ It’s well worth doing, they’re a fabulous machine aside from that problem. And while the screen is off, grab a hard drive upgrade at the same time ๐Ÿ™‚

  8. Hi there every body and happy new year, i followed all tuto ,and really every thing explained replacing the screen and flex with test results of his … its totally true, i replaced screen and flex , and use same digitalizer circuit glued at the corner of screen same digitalizer flex ; right now am rigthing with SP4 and its working well performing well , but with same digitalizer issue already explaned by him, thank you very much , God bless all

  9. I have few dozens of Surface Pro 4 with me, mostly are M5 or i5 specs and some i7 specs. Is there a way to check which brand of LCD are fitted onto the surface pro? Without taking apart the screen. Because some surface pro 4 are fitted with LG screens, especially the i7 spec tends to have more LG screen installed.

    1. Unfortunately, I’m not aware of any way of telling without having the back off. If anyone else has any ideas please let us know!

      Though if it flickers you can pretty much guarantee it was a Samsung ๐Ÿ˜‰

      1. Iโ€™ve just found a software that could pull the display model information out from the motherboard, Aida64.

        Later on Iโ€™ll try to dismantle some faulty Samsung display and try to find a solution since I have dozens of them, maybe re-glue or solder the contact? Since you said it was caused by the glue become soften and unable to bond the contact for proper signal. Could be caused by bad IC on the display board and degraded over time and prone to heat?

        1. Hi Chiang,
          Thanks for the link to AIDA64 – I can confirm that it does indeed show my screen as an LG. This is brilliant news and I’ll update the article accordingly.

          Keep me in touch if you find a solution. The other thing that I’d really like to do with the old LCD’s is turn them into displays for other devices somehow, minus the touch perhaps since the glass is usually broken by the time I get them.

          It could very well be a degraded IC. However, I can’t see any space for an IC across the top, all the ICs are at the bottom of the display and they don’t get hot. All the heat is at the top right and top left (mostly top right) and all the black lines that are indicative of the problem beginning start at the top. I think it’s simply the glue melting that holds the control cables on to the back of the display panel. I’ve seen the same problem on LCD TVs – but you can usually see their cables and apply enough pressure to (temporarily) solve the issue.

          Let me know! Fascinated in your outcome.


  10. Hi steve brown, Thanks for this fantastic post. I have one question as I can’t purchase from eBay, can I use any other model of surface pro5 screen other than one described in your post link and which ribbon cable will be used with other models of surface pro5 screen? as your mentioned flex cable that attaches with the motherboard is for LG screens. Thanks again

  11. Hey Steve!
    Thank you for your detailed writeup. I just have a quick question. I noticed that the original cable you linked is no longer available. I’ve found cables on ebay from other sellers that have the “1724 M1010537-003” nomenclature, but they are missing the “ZKFE668” part. There are a bunch that say “ZVFE668” instead. Do you know if these are equivalent/would work?

    Thank you for your time!

    1. Hi Jeffrey,
      I can’t say for certain if they’ll work but my suspicion is that they will. My advice there is, since they cost about $10, it might be worth a punt. The key part number, I think, is the M1010537 part.

      Would be very interested to hear how you get on!


      1. Interested in the results too. I went to go purchase the parts today and I can’t seem to find the display cable adapter from a seller that isn’t away on ebay.

      2. I contacted the seller on Amazon and the parts should be available now, but I see 18$ shipping tacked on to the price.

  12. Hi Steve,
    thank you for your research and for the sharing of these information. I want to exchange a broken display with the ID LTL123yl01โ€“003. Can I also use the LG SP5 display, the N-Trig from the current display, the new (adapter) cable which you have linkend and the second calbe from the current display?


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