Can I Upgrade the Storage in the Geo Flex 2 in 1 laptop? This Guide Shows You How Easy It Is
Can I upgrade the storage in the Geo Flex 2 in 1 laptop? The short answer to this, is a resounding yes, you can. At least, the version of the Geo Flex 2 in 1 that I have, you can. Your mileage may vary.
Is Upgrading the Storage Easy?
This depends on your level of computer experience. If you’re familiar with tinkering around with hardware then it’s super easy to upgrade the storage in the Geo Flex 2 in 1. But it helps to know what you’re dealing with. Fortunately, this is something I’ve just done and I can guide you through what you’ll need and how to do it.
If you’re not familiar with playing with computer hardware, or don’t want to take the risk, you should be able to find someone locally who doesn’t mind reading this article to find what they need and performing the task for you.
Do bear in mind though, the following information MAY void your warranty. I have NOT contacted Geo Computers as yet to determine if it will.
Why Would I Need To Upgrade the Storage in the Geo Flex 2 in 1 laptop?
In a previous article about this laptop, I raved fairly hard about it. I think, despite Curry’s PC World’s sales staff, that this laptop is a great find for the price. Touch screen, tablet mode, tent mode, great little touchpad with multitouch gestures, the list of things to like goes on and on.
But in one area, the laptop lacks. Severely. And that is the area of storage space. Storage space, or hard drive space, determines how many applications, data or hours of music/movies you can put on a device. Bearing in mind that Windows itself uses approaching 11 Gigabytes these days, that leaves not much at all out of the 32Gigabytes that GeoFlex 11″ 2 in 1 laptop comes with.
It’s very easy to add a USB Pen-Drive to this laptop and the fact that both USB ports are USB3.0 is a bonus because they’re relatively quick. However, USB3 pen-drives are still slower than the built in drive that the machine comes with. So adding a USB3.0 drive will give you extra storage but there’s two problems;
- You can’t easily boot from the USB drive and although you can tell Windows 10 to install new software and stuff to this drive it all feels a bit disjointed.
- A large USB drive sticking out the side of the machine is prone to breakage. Not good for your computer and not good for your data.
So given those reasons, you may want to upgrade the storage in the Geo Flex 2 in 1 laptop as a result.
OK, You Said I Can Upgrade – How?
The Geo Flex 2 In 1 laptop comes with a small expansion ‘hatch’ at the bottom, underneath. It’s secured by two small Phillips head screws. Finding the right size screwdriver to remove this cover reveals an M.2 port, with a B-Key form factor.
If you don’t understand what any of that means, you can do a bit of research for yourself, or take the simple explanation that this is an expansion port into which a very small (in terms of physical size) Solid State Hard Drive will plug.
A Brief Note About M.2 ports and cards
I’ve had to do a LOT of reading around this new way of adding expansion devices to computers because I haven’t really played with hardware for quite some time. Briefly though, M.2 is a new way of connecting expansion cards to computers. It’s a small expansion slot, which takes cards that are generally 22mm wide and either 30, 42, 60 or 80mm in length. Some are 110mm in length.
M.2 form factor was previously called NGFF or, Next Generation Form Factor.
I’m not going to go into great detail about all this, the keywords above should help you to do a Google Search though if you’re interested in figuring it all out for yourself.
There are various interfaces of hard drives which match the M.2 form factor and it’s vitally important that you plug the right type into the right socket.
B-Keys and M-Keys
Firstly there are 2 types of notches – a B-notch (or B-key) and an M-notch or M-Key. The GeoFlex 2 in 1 laptop port contains a B-Keyed port. The key refers to an area of the substrate of the expansion card which has been cut away to provide a ‘key’ area. If your card does not have the right notch cut out it will not fit.
So, you need a B-Keyed M.2 card. An M-Keyed card will not fit. Some cards have both notches cut out, and indeed the drive most likely to work for you is actually one of these dual notched cards or a B-M-Keyed M.2 card. Cards with both keys cut out will work in either.
Next there are two types of interface for these expansion cards. There is a SATA interface and a PCIE NVME interface. The PCIE NVME interface itself comes in 2 variants, a 2x variant and a 4x variant. The 2x variants have a B-Key notch cut out, and the 4x variants come with an M-Key cutout. At least, that’s what I’ve tended to find in my searches.
The SATA interfaced M.2 cards have a B-M Key. This means they’ll fit in either a B-keyed M.2 socket or an M-Keyed M.2 socket.
So Which Key Type Do I Need?
Remember that we said the GeoFlex 2 in 1 has a B-Key socket inside that little expansion hatch on the bottom? This means that potentially either a NVME Gen3 x2 interfaced card would work (it has the B-Key) or a SATA interfaced card would work (these have both keys).
It turns out – because I’ve tried both the NVME and the SATA card, the only one I could get working was the SATA interfaced card. An image is included below to help you identify what you’re looking for.
I chose the 120 Gigabyte version because it’s plenty big enough for my needs on this laptop. It was also the cheapest option since I didn’t know at this point if it would actually work. You could go for a much bigger capacity drive if you wish. But if you choose a different drive make certain it’s a SATA interface not an NVME interface. My research suggests any with the dual notch are SATA, but do check before buying. The picture above links to the exact drive I used from Amazon. The other interface types will NOT work to upgrade the storage on the Geo Flex 2 in 1 laptop. They simply won’t be recognised by the UEFI system.
If you click on the picture above, Amazon will show you various other drives that are also compatible if you do want bigger storage capacity.
Western Digital Green or Blue?
I chose the WD Green because there is absolutely no cooling inside this laptop. The WD Green is a low power device and doesn’t, allegedly, generate as much heat as other devices might. It’s not as fast as other devices, but in this case heat is going to be the issue. For this reason I’d recommend sticking with the WD Greens, but feel free to experiment 🙂
Remember though, you MAY be invalidating your warranty. You do so at your own risk and I am not responsible if you do.
I’ve Bought The M.2 SATA Drive, now what?
Next we need to install it. On undoing the two small phillips head screws that hold the expansion hatch in place, you’ll see a very small port toward the edge of the laptop. Your new drive needs to be put into that port.
There’s quite likely to be another small screw attached to a small piece of plastic inside the hatch area. This is an attachment which will allow a 2240 sized drive device to be inserted and affixed. I couldn’t find any of this size, almost everything is 2280 anyway. So I removed the piece of plastic and stored it safely in case I ever need it again. If you’re using 2280 size you won’t need it and it’ll be in the way if you don’t remove it.
Caution – It’s Upside Down!
When attempting to insert the card into the port, bear in mind, this port is upside down. The main board on which it is attached faces upwards, into the inside of the laptop. So when you’re inserting the new drive device you need to be looking at the back of it.
Inserting the device is extremely fiddly. Take care not to touch any of the components on the board. Line the card up with the port and gently push the device into the port. If you have everything lined up correctly the device shouldn’t take too much to push it in.
You’ll need to go at a very flat angle. Otherwise there’s a strong chance that you’ll end up doing what I did and insert the card underneath the port. Clearly, it won’t work if it’s not inserted correctly. You’ll know if you’ve got it right. The card should snap into position and clip under the small plastic clip at it’s far end. If it’s inserted underneath the port it won’t lie flat and will be difficult to clip in. And it won’t work.
Is It Worth Upgrading The Storage On The Geo Flex 2 in 1 Laptop?
In a word. Yes.
The extra capacity on its own makes this upgrade worth it – but it is a bit of a faff. You’ll likely need to reinstall Windows once you’ve done it. To do this you’ll need to make sure you have all the GeoFlex drivers. I’ll give you details later in the post on how to do that.
But, another spin off benefit ( haha, spin off – hard drives, see what I did there? ) of this upgrade is that the eMMC storage that comes with the laptop is pretty slow. You can google eMMC versus SATA for the reasons why and how different they are performance wise.
I’ve found the laptop to be much quicker to boot up, and much quicker to switch between applications that are already running. Copying files around is a LOT quicker and opening new applications up is much snappier.
For the £30.00 I paid for the WD Green SATA M.2 this has to be the best upgrade to this laptop you can make.
How Do I Use It Once It’s Installed?
For me, I didn’t have to do anything in the BIOS/UEFI settings. It just showed up as a SATA Port when I restarted Windows. But you do need to open up the Disk Management application and partition and reformat the drive into something usable.
You can choose whether to use the drive as an additional drive, or whether you want to reinstall Windows.
The benefit of re-installing Windows is that you’ll get a nice clean install, which should run nice and fast. You’ll also want to install Windows on to the new SATA drive. This drive is much quicker than the eMMC that the GeoFlex came with. This will give your little laptop a great boost.
I also just find it tidier to have everything on the one drive rather than some stuff on a USB drive and the system on a separate drive.
But, you’ll need to make sure that you have all the necessary GeoFlex drivers. And you’ll need to install Windows from a USB key. You’ll need at least an 8 Gigabyte USB storage key for this. A good USB key for this purpose is the SanDisk 64Gigabyte UltraFit USB 3 key, also available at Amazon. It’s the one I used. Once the reinstall is done you can use it for other things.
Create Windows 10 Installation Media
Doing this needs to be done on your laptop before you attempt to re-install, although you can do it from another machine it’s just easier to do it before you destroy the existing data and operating system. Navigate to
https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10 in your browser and follow the instructions for that. If the link above doesn’t work for you, just Google ‘Download Windows 10 ISO’ and you’ll get taken to the right place anyway.
I told the Windows 10 Installation Media creation tool to download as an ISO and then I use a tool called Rufus to create the USB drive, although the Windows creation tool will create a bootable USB key I like having the ISO around in case I want to play with something later, or re-use the USB key in the meantime. Rufus will make a good job of creating the disk for you. You’ll need to use GPT Partition tables and UEFI bootable drive to make it work on the GeoFlex.
Getting The GeoFlex Drivers
I had cause some time ago to write to GeoFlex and tell them that I’d had to re-install Windows from scratch (in this case I had destroyed my Windows partitions completely and installed Neverware’s Cloud Ready Chromium OS).
When I reinstalled Windows a good proportion of the drivers were actually automatically found. However, some weren’t. And some were but didn’t work properly. Notably the keyboard and screen accelerometer’s which come with Windows were quite problematic and didn’t detect when the laptop was being used as a tablet. GeoFlex drivers fix that.
Geo’s support team provided me with a link to download the drivers, along with helpful instructions on how to install them easily. You can get the instructions and details from GEO download and install drivers.pdf
Please be aware that it’s possible the link above will break at some point and I’m not sure how happy Geo will be with me sharing it. If they ask me to remove it I will, although the drivers are only useful on their hardware and hopefully this article will help people realise how good their hardware actually is. If the link does break, visit https://geo-computers.com/ and request their support.
I’d save the drivers to another USB drive somewhere, or put them in your Google Drive account or something – you never know when you’ll want them again in the future.
Booting From The USB
In order to reinstall Windows on to your new hard drive you’re going to need to boot from the USB media that Windows Media Creation Tool made for you. To do this, you need to change the boot order of the Geo Flex 2 in 1 laptop because by default it will only ever boot straight into Windows.
I haven’t managed to find a nice key combination like some laptops have in order to boot from a USB as a one off. Instead, I’ve had to go into the UEFI/BIOS settings and adjust the boot order in there. If you know of a key combination to do it once off please leave a comment for me!
To reboot into the UEFI boot manager you’ll need to reboot Windows using the Troubleshooter tool. In the Cortana box to the left, type ‘troubleshoot settings’ then click the suggestion. Then click the ‘Recovery’ option and then the ‘Restart now’ button. This will restart your PC and from there you’ll need to choose the options to enter the UEFI/BIOS setup screens, which require another restart.
Once in the UEFI management screens, choose Boot and choose the USB key you created as the first boot option. Then choose the Save and Exit option and it should boot from the USB key. Bear in mind that if it doesn’t, but instead boots straight back in to Windows, you’ve got something wrong somewhere. Leave me a comment and I’ll try to help. I may even do a video walkthrough of how to do this as it’ll probably be better explained that way.
Installing Windows is a case of following all the prompts, but pay special attention to which drive you are installing to. The new drive will be the one that is bigger!
For me, I decided to delete the partitions from the original drive because I wanted to make sure that my system was booting from the faster and larger SATA drive. But only do this if you’re sure you have everything backed up somewhere else and can restore all your data files. I use Google Drive for this purpose so it never matters if I delete a whole computer. At the moment I’ve not even reformatted it because I don’t think I’ll actually need to use it.
Some Basic Performance Benchmarks
I’m not all that familiar with what all that means to be fair. Someone who is better at it than I can leave a comment hopefully and explain it all. But suffice to say, it is an indication of how much data is transferred from the hard drives to the application per second. So a higher number is better. You would expect the SATA interface to outperform the eMMC on more complex operations and this seems to bear it out.
The laptop definitely feels snappier and has a LOT more storage space available. For £30 quid or so I’ve quadrupled the amount of storage space and given the laptop a speed boost at the same time.
Massive kudos and respect to Geo Computers for including an M.2 SATA port in their laptop. This makes this laptop one of (if not the) best budget laptop I’ve seen for a very long time. For some of my other reasons for liking this laptop, read my review of the GeoFlex 2 in 1 Laptop here.
Where To Buy?
UPDATE: Refurbished / Opened Box versions of this laptop are now available through Laptop Outlet and have been rebranded as FIVETECH. They’re the same machine though as confirmed by HOTUKDEALS. Current time of writing they’re £149 which isn’t too bad even when you add the cost of an additional SSD considering they were £199 from Curry’s.
Both boxes may generate a commission for me if you purchase at either Curry’s PC World or Amazon as a result of clicking through. If you’ve found this article useful and don’t mind me getting a commission please use the boxes above. Otherwise, if you prefer, you can search for the terms mentioned above on Google and avoid any commissions. The price you pay will be the same though, regardless of any commissions that may or may not be paid to me.
I have the same Geo laptop.
I tried leaving a comment twice, but they don’t show.
Is there a problem in here?
There’s no problem 🙂 But, I do manually approve all comments to reduce the amount of spam. If I published comments immediately the page would be overwhelmed with all sorts of rubbish that you’d have to wade through 🙂 And since it’s just me, it can take a couple of days before I’m back at my computer. Apologies for the delay but you can see the reply I’ve made to your actual comment above 🙂
All the best,
We have a 2.5 years old Geoflex 11.6″ 32GB without the expantion hatch and with Windows 10 installed.
Windows 10 take all the space even after fresh install of the opatation system.
We also had touch screen drivers problem, that an email to Geo computers solved.
Where could I get a suitable 64GB eMMC storage? as I’m up to a soldering job.
Yeah, unfortunately 32Gigs just doesn’t cut it any more. In terms of ‘up to a soldering job’ it would be a very complex soldering job I suspect. I haven’t looked, but it’s likely to be a surface mount device with pins underneath and would require hot air soldering at best. That said, it is potentially doable. But the eMMCs aren’t a consumer device and would likely need to come from the manufacturer. You /might/ be able to find one on somewhere like AliExpress but it’s going to be a complex undertaking that may result in a dead GeoFlex.
Before you go that route, have a look under the back cover, you might find an M.2 slot under there anyway – just without the convenient hatch. I don’t know as mine had the hatch. But if you have the M.2 slot that would be a far better, easier and safer solution.
If you don’t have the M.2 slot, a safer solution than trying to solder an eMMC would be to use a USB3 external SSD to store your userdata. It’s a little cumbersome perhaps, but USB3 is pretty quick, and an SSD would be far faster than a pendrive. You’d need a USB3 to SATA caddy. 240Gbyte SSDs are pretty cheap these days and I doubt you’d notice the difference speedwise between that and an eMMC.
You can tell Windows 10 to store all user files on a separate disk and any new programs can also be installed there. Of course they won’t work if the USB3 drive is disconnected but it may just get you a working machine again. A bit of sticky backed velcro on the caddy and the laptop lid could keep it safe(ish) and not be too cumbersome.
Let me know how you get on!
Geoflex touchscreen was disabled from within BIOS. Can’t rember the settings to re enable it. Does anyone know what settings ?
I recently acquired one of these laptops in the hopes that it would have the SSD slot to upgrade the storage, but unfortunately ended up with one of the revisions with the flush panel on the bottom.
As others have said however, upon removing the entire bottom panel, it seems there is indeed a space where the card would sit, and I’m fairly sure that despite the physical port not being present, that the solder points likely exist where it would be (though I need to have a proper look after writing this).
Long story short; I’m wondering if simply soldering on the connector would work just as well (as some other laptop brands can have theirs enabled this way despite the same missing-connector difference), and was wondering if you’d happen to know the part number of the connector used?
I figure it may have some numbers or other useful information printed onto or embedded into it.
That way I can look it up, order a connector, and give it a go!
Thanks for any help, and if anyone else reading this comment is also willing to help provide this information, thank you in advance!
I have done the upgrade with the same WD m.2 SSD that you used but now have a problem. My battery is draining really fast. I’m not sure if this is due to to the drive or Windows update which was done.
I never saw that issue myself – which was one of the reasons I chose the Green drive since it’s a little slower than the blue but less energy hungry.
It might pay to open up Task Manager and have a look at which processes are using the most power?
I’m trying to install NeverWare cloud ready and noticed you had this installed yourself. I’m having an issue where my GeoFlex refuses to boot from USB. It is being recognised in the BIOS and lets me change the boot order but it will just keep displaying the GEO logo, go to a black screen then display the Logo again.
I have tried the USB in another machine and it booted NeverWare with no issues.
I must have a different revision as I don’t appear to have this expansion slot
I’ve tried to use “MediaCreationTool1909” to move Win 10 to an USB Stick.
My Laptop is GeoBook3. I follow the instruction to select the USB device as the target but the next panel says I need 9Gb on my C: disk and shuts down the program.
What am I doing wrong. I have yet to plug in the M2 SSD 820S into the laptop as that is not clear in your instruction.
Doe anybody have a copy of the c:\windows\inf\touchsetting.gt file from an original build. After re-installing windows 1909 (no space to upgrade on 32gb from 1504) and installing the drivers everything is working but the touchscreen is not responding correctly. I managed to find a ‘close’ touchsetting.gt on the internet but towards the top of the screen touch starts to run out.
Contents of file c:\windows\inf\touchsetting.gt:
SendCFG=1 ;Send CFG to touch IC when loading driver
PhysicalXsize=2560 ;Physical size£¬the unit is 0.1mm
ESD=1 ;Driver supports ESD recovery processing
;SensorID=0 ;According to the different SensorID send different configuration
GtpTool=0 ;GuitarTestPlateform tool support
Pen=0 ;stylus/pen support
NumberOfKey=1 ;The total number of keys supported,equal to 0 does not support key
Key1=0xe3 ;0xe3 is home key,Must be a hexadecimal number
Hi, picked up one of these yesterday at a discount price. However my version doesn’t have the expansion slot? It’s just one clean piece of aluminium (?) on the underside. Just wondering whether there is still an m2 slot underneath it and whether I need to take the whole panel off?
I’ve no experience with that model unfortunately – though someone posted a comment a while back indicating that if it didn’t have the slot in the bottom of the case then there was no M.2 slot inside either. But, so long as there’s no stickers covering the screws on the bottom I don’t think it’ll hurt to have a look. But it might void your warranty anyway if something goes wrong and they work out you’ve had the bottom off…
If you decide to have a look, could you pop back and let us know?
Question for someone more knowledgeable about these things than me !
I’d like to install an M2 sata drive, but I’m not sure I’ve got the correct slot. All the M2 sata drives seem to have a semi-circular cut-out at the opposite end to the pins, and I can see a matching semi-circle in your slot. My slot doesn’t have this semi-circle, although I can see the pins under the back cover at the other end of the slot. Is this not an M2 slot?
I’m not sure without looking at it – if it’s a Geo Flex with the little expansion hatch it should be an M2 slot. If you can tweet a photo to me I’m stevna on Twitter and we can try that way to identify it…
Forgot to say that it is the Geo Flex with the expansion hatch. There’s what looks like a B-key connector under the plastic at the outer end of the slot.
Hi Steve. I’ve attempted to send a tweet! Whether or not it’ll work is another matter! Thanks for your help.
Quick question to the GeoFlex 11.6 users.
Do you see faint vertical lines baked into the digitizer? Mine has them even when switched on and you can see them with daylight. Is this typical?
Yeah, they’re the touch screen sensors I suspect.
Is there anywhere to obtain a replacement battery for the Geoflex 2 in 1, currently switches off as soon as the jack is unplugged.
Mine has the same problem. Did your battery start charging again? Cheers!
I had exactly same symptoms, and just battery connector was disconnected after the laptop’s fall , so check it.
If you are reading this and you are an owner of Geo Flex, can you please contact me? I need to have the BIOS settings of a Geo Flex with working touch screen. I have reset my bios and now my touch screen is acting all weird. If I can get the BIOS parameters from a working Geo, I hope I can fix mine. IF you think you can help please reach me at burkay.genc -at- gmail =dot= com. I really appreciate any help.
Hi Burkey, We have Geoflex 11.6 32GB without the explanation natch and I had the same problem after fresh installation of windows, and drivers supplied by Geo computers solved the weird behaviour of the screen and restored the touch screen back to life. But tell me what you need and I will have a look for you. Regards, Joseph.
hi mine has same problem did a fresh install now touchscreen doesnt work but keep getting ghosting and cursor decides to move to the left of then screen
A quick note to say thanks for the information which I’ve used to upgrade my GeoBook 3X (32GB eMMC N4200 processor from FiveTech) not quite the same as yours but remarkably similar with regards to upgrading the SSD. I chose an M2.SSD from the Crucial MX500 range which also came with a link to the Acronis True Image cloning software and I used this to clone the Win10 operating system to the Crucial SSD.
So thanks to HotUKDeals (£79.99 for the laptop) and your instructions on upgrading (£59 for M2.SSD) I now have a very useable laptop with a large bootable
drive all for less than £140….Oh and the 32GB eMMC which I decided to keep untouched (with the win10 boot disabled) just in case I need to go back or if something fails.
Thanks for your feedback. I’ve also got a Crucial SSD but in the 2.5″ format in a different machine – I’ve found it to be an excellent drive. Good idea to keep the eMMC untouched – it’s all there if you need it back at any point like that.
I’ve also only just noticed that this was the GeoBook 3X that you upgraded in this way – not the Geo Flex. Excellent, glad to have helped there too then – they are good little machines when that upgrade is done – and the price is good too.
Hi so I have a GeoFlex I followed your guide and, did a new windows copy, installed the drivers but Im having problems with my network adapter.
So my network adaptor is just completely missing – no WiFi options to enable/diable etc.
The network drivers are simply not there (not even under hidden). So I can’t unsitall/reinstall them. I’ve tried to reinstall the Intel dualband WiFi drivers manaully but that doesnt seem to work (and I’m not entirely sure which one it is, if it is that anyway!). Can you tell me what the network driver it is? And/Or point to a download link?
Scanning for hardware changes does nothing.
Ive plugged in a WiFi dongle and restarted etc. to see if Windows will fix the problem.
I also did another fresh install of windows but no luck.
I’ve tried various other solutions that have been posted online but I can’t find anything that works. (such as power plans, windows services etc.)
Would really appreciate some feedback!
There’s a couple of things that spring to mind – firstly did you grab the official drivers from Geo from the page? /can-i-upgrade-the-storage-space-on-the-geo-flex-2-in-1-laptop/#getting_the_geoflex_drivers
Secondly it’s possible, if you have the drivers already, that somehow the WiFi has managed to get disabled in the BIOS, or through the use of one of the Fn keys. I can’t remember which one of the Fn keys it is that can enable and disable WiFi off hand. But it sounds like that’s the most likely issue. It’s worth booting into the BIOS and seeing if the WiFi is enabled.
Thanks for the reply.
Yup I followed the pdf for the offical drivers from Geo as per your guide and installed them and restarted.
The problem is that under my device manager there isn’t a driver installed for the network adaptor, and it doesnt show up under hidden either – so I’m guessing it wasn’t installed.
If I recall correctly for the GeoFlex, the network driver is the “Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC xxxx”(But I cannot remember what series it is, perhap the 3168?)
I was hoping that you might be able to check and confirm whice one it is and I could install it manually.
In regards to the fn keys, I’m pretty sure for my keyboard config that none of them do control the WiFi but I guess this point is moot since there is no WiFi at all.
For example I can’t just go to Network&Internet Settings -> Change Adapter Options -> Enable/Diable the WiFi because its simply not there.
As matter of fact when I click on the Internet symbol it just comes up with the option to turn on and off flight mode, so again no WiFi etc. (and just to be clear its not that the device is in flight mode either)
I had another look in the BIOS but theres no network settings at all, I’ve gone through every menu that I can open and I can’t see anything that would resemble turning on/off a WiFi setting.
For example on my desktop this comes up as “Internal WLAN” but my GeoFlex has nothing of the sort.
Perhaps im missing something, because I would have presumed I could enable/disable the Bluetooth in the BIOS but I cannot find this setting either. (Side note the bluetooth does work)
But as I said I’ve gone through every menu in the BIOS with no luck finding it.
I would just like to say I have now FIXED this problem!
Indeed you were correct Steve, it is in the BIOS but not as obvious as I first thought.
After contacting the Geo-Computers customer support they showed me what to do and here it is for anyone else experiencing this same problem:
Go to the BIOS -> Chipset -> South Cluster Configuration -> PCI Express Configuration -> Select PCI Express Root Port 3:
Choose the first option (PCI Express Root Port 3) and switch from Auto to ENABLED
Save changes and exit.
Again thanks for your help Steve and the guide itself is great!
PS: Don’t go to Currys for help fixing your GeoFlex they are absolutely garbage and wanted to charge £75 to fix this problem and their solution was to do a factory rest and update Windows (which obviously I tried and didnt work). Instead Geo-Computers has a customer portal with very speedy response!
Actually, my experience with Geo support is quite the failure. All they provide is a document with how to install Windows and how to install drivers for Windows. Although I clearly indicated that my problem is a BIOS problem and I need the BIOS settings from them, they continued to force me to install windows.
That’s excellent to hear, I’m glad you got it up and running.
Thank you for posting the fix too – that’s a lot more involved than I thought it would be!
I’m VERY happy to hear that Geo Support are still as responsive – I’ve contacted them a couple of times, but not recently and they were superb then too. Much better than Currys PC World.
All the best,
I have a GeoFlex. Seemingly the same as yours, but then again not quite so! There is no panel on the external casing, and no two screws to remove.
None the less I persevered, and removed the full outer casing to inspect inside the box. There is an empty space underneath where I think your hatch is, and the PCB wraps round the end. The PCB has a profusion of micro solder marks, so I think that this is the location where the M2 socket could have been mounted but it’s empty on mine.
You don’t mention about the emmc location but I am guessing that on yours it was probably on a mini board using the same M2 socket and had to be removed?
Access to the CMOS menu is available on mine just by holding the delete key immediately when turning on. Reveals the longest and most detailed CMOS menu that I’ve ever seen before.
You seem to have had a lot of trouble with reestablishing drivers after the hardware change. So long as the original set up is still available on the eemc it is probably possible to make a disk image from it. Procedures all exactly the same as for replacing any conventional drive with an SSD.
Anyway, I am as you can imagine pretty disappointed. None the less thank you for alerting me to the possibility. I don’t suppose that Dixon’s were very enthusiastic about selling a ‘cheap’ product that could be modified to compete head-on with far more profitable products at more than twice the price!
Warning to others, if you can’t see a hatch on the outside of the case, you probably can not mount an M2 card on your Geo Flex!.
Is yours the 32G eMMC or the newer 64G eMMC I’ve been hearing about? Perhaps they removed the M.2 socket on the newer ones. That’s a shame if they did, they’re good machines when the SSD is upgradeable. Removing that options is a retrograde step.
The eMMC is soldered to the board and didn’t occupy the M.2 slot. It was extra. So, I had 32G eMMC and 128G M.2 SATA.
And thanks for the warning to others – if you want to upgrade, get the one with the hatch!
I have the 32gb fivetech variant. It doesn’t have a hatch at the back. And when you remove the back, there is an empty space where an m.2 slot would be. So apparently, some variants of this laptop is crippled.
Also I tried to install linux on the laptop, thinking it will manage the 32gb much better. Unfortunately, the WiFi chip (Intel 3165 AC) used in these laptops is a chip from hell for linux. It is considered to be one of the worst wifi chips ever produced. Even Intel dropped support recently.
So, for me, it is no disk upgrade, no wifi (or use an external usb wifi adapter). Really big show stoppers, but I still like the device.
Try last Linux MX. On SSD disk working prety good, much faster like Win 10, and use just of 25% RAM on start.
Or alternative, you can get PrimeOS (androidOS), just on MMC disc, working incerdible fast with lot of flawour of it kind of OS.
It’s my favorite system on this device now.
I’ve heard elsewhere that some variants don’t have the hatch or the ability to upgrade it. That’s a shame as that upgrade ability turns it from a mediocre device into one worth having… I couldn’t have got on with it on 32Gigabytes. But if you can get on with it then it is a good device still as you said
After trying many things to make the WIFI work in Linux, I have finally decided to switch back to Windows 10. Unfortunately, now I have WIFI but lost the touchscreen! At some point I have reset the BIOS to default settings. I suspect that that may have created some problems. Windows 10 successfully recognizes the touch screen as a Goodix HID device. I have also installed the Geo drivers from the link you have provided. But it simply didn’t work. Touch input was not working, also the mouse was acting weird. It was randomly moving around the screen and clicking things on its own.
Then I have downloaded 1.4 drivers for Goodix that I have downloaded from some Microsoft site ( I guess). That slightly improved things. Now the mouse behaves and doesn’t act on its own. But the touch input is still useless. I can now see that the touch input is recognized, but it behaves as if the screen is rotated and then works only at some points on the screen and not on others. So weird!
These lead me to two possible culprits: wrong bios settings or bad driver. So can you help me with this? If you still have the geo flex, can you go to BIOS, make a copy of your settings (on the last tab) and send me the file? Also can you tell me the driver version you are using?
I am adding my email in case you can help me. I have also contacted Geo but they didn’t reply yet. So you are my best shot at the moment 🙂
thanks in advance.
It’s ESC+F5 to get into the bios.
Excellent, thanks for that!
I’m having trouble getting the keyboard to disable in tablet mode. Is this working for you? It’s a shame as it stops the laptop being used flat in tablet mode due to pressing keys on the back!
No, unfortunately it’s one of the only things I couldn’t get to work and it’s daft. I rarely used it in tablet to be fair so it didn’t bother me greatly. If I find the answer I’ll let you know though
Certainly, it would be more elegant to have the driver that monitors the screen positioning sensor and get both the keyboard and touchpad disabled automatically.
Thanks for finding that!
Great guide thanks, would never have realise the drive needed to be upside down! I had a spare Sandisk 128gb m.2 drive so have used that. Having trouble downloading the drivers though, it seems to stall at any point during the download. Do you happen to have them on a shareable link somewhere else? Or perhaps send them to me? Thanks
Ignore that, got the drivers to download finally. Reinstalling windows now, thanks for the guide.
Thanks for the detailed write up, found it very useful as the 32gig drive wouldn’t allow updating to the latest version of Windows 10, tried using 128gig micro flash drive as spare space when updating but kept failing as when rebooting kept saying insert drive (this 128gig MicroSD card never showed up in the bios)
Have now installed a 250gig version of the WD Green M2 SATA drive you linked to and yes laptop is much faster.
All I need to do now is find someway of getting a replacement glass screen.
That’s fabulous to hear – thank you for taking the time to give me feedback. I’m thrilled that it’s worked for you and I think with that little upgrade it’s a solid choice for a budget ultra-portable Windows 2 in 1.
On the screen front I don’t have any experience with trying to change it yet so I can’t help there I’m afraid. You might have some luck on eBay but the process for changing it might be interesting! You may get lucky and only need to change the glass itself rather than the whole LCD depending on how they’re put together. I know replacing the LCD screen on the Surface Pro 4 requires a full LCD and glass assembly which makes it a bit more expensive.
Good luck and let me know if you manage to succeed!
All the best,
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